PCT | Northern California
The third section of the PCT crosses Northern California, from Echo Lake (mile 1092) up to the border between California and Oregon (mile 1692).
PCT thru-hikers often report to have hit a demotivational phase in this section, also known as the “NorCal Blues”. This is mostly due to the fact that the views get a little less interesting after having completed the epic section of the Sierra, and maps are a good reminder that there is still a loooong way to go until Canada… and a big chunk of it would still be in the neverending state of California.
1. Echo Lake to Truckee
mi 1093 - mi 1154
2. Truckee to Belden
mi 1154 - mi 1288
3. Belden to BMGR
mi 1288 - mi 1411
4. BMGR to Mount Shasta
mi 1411 - mi 1502
5. Mount Shasta to Etna
mi 1502 - mi 1601
6. Etna to the CA/OR Border
mi 1601 - mi 1694
These are the main challenges we faced:
Burned zones, blowdowns & scarsity of shade 🪵
Wildfires & smoke 🔥
NorCal blues 🌚
Although still beautiful, this section was definitely a big mental challenge for us, mainly due to the early start of the wildfire season. As wildfires started spreading in Northern California, Oregon and Washington, it was difficult to stay optimistic and keep walking. We soon realized that wildfires were going to be the main characters of our thru-hike and had to quickly adapt. We decided to walk on a continuous path up to Canada and plan adventurous re-routes around fires when needed… and wow, how cool were those off-trail experiences!
“On The Tahoe Rim”
Echo Lake to Truckee
Distance: 61 miles
Time: 3 days
Our Resupplies: Echo Lake
Mile 1095 | day 68 | Echo Lake
We resupplied for 3 more days at the Echo Lake Chalet, where we also enjoyed english muffins, orange juice, pepsi, coffee, beer and a very much craved chocolate milkshake (yes, all at the same time).
I then had a videocall with my sister, who was at the Taylor Swift concert back home… just in time to shed a tear at the “Cruel Summer” chorus.
We then started walking towards Desolation Wilderness, with the goal of reaching Truckee in 3 days and spend a well deserved zero.
These were the views when looking back towards Echo Lake from the trail.
Mile 1100 | day 68 | On trail
Lake Aloha.
This was a spectacular swim!
Shortly after, I missed a junction and kept walking on the wrong trail for a while… typical Lilo. All absorbed in my thoughts, I was having a loud conversation in English, all by myself… didn’t even notice the sudden total absence of hikers around me.
Mile 1106.5 | day 68 | On trail
Great views from the “fake top” of Dicks Pass. “Fake” because the long climb seemed over… but it wasn’t, of course.
Mile 1111 | day 69 | On trail
Sunrise at Middle Velma Lake.
Mile 1115 | day 69 | On trail
New beautiful flowers appeared on trail!
Mile 1126 | day 69 | On trail
Lilo’s face when realizing that she is a dreamer, she doesn’t know the “7 thinking steps”, and no trail magic was waiting for her at Barker Pass.
Mile 1130 | day 69 | On trail
Views from the ridge above Lake Tahoe. The sky was a bit smoky, because of a wildfire nearby, called “Royal Fire”.
Wildfires are very common on the West Coast, and therefore often affect the PCT as well… luckily there were no fire closures here!
Mile 1141.6 | day 70 | On trail
Palisades Ski Area above Truckee.
Mile 1142 | day 70 | On trail
DAMN! Those hikers legs are lookin’ GOOD!
Mile 1147 | day 70 | On trail
Beautiful ridge walk before reaching Donner Pass.
The last few days we realized that we’ve become faster, stronger and hungrier! We felt invincible!
A surprise was waiting for us at Donner Pass, aside from good food and fresh soda…
Mile 1154.5 | day 71 | Truckee
In Truckee, we spent a zero in a nice cabin in the woods, together with Petra.
We even had a special guest, Pacman! We are so happy we managed to reunite with him.
Another highlight of this zero was that we managed to repair the zipper of our Zpacks Duplex tent! The zipper was failing to close since a week… it was a tough week, especially with all the mosquitoes!
“Dirt Roads & Dixie Fire”
Truckee to Belden
Distance: 134 miles
Time: 6 days
Our Resupplies: Truckee, Sierra City
Mile 1170 | day 72 | On trail
The next day, we felt so good to move our legs and rhythmically kick the dust on the trail… that narrow path surrounded by mountains and forests is now our home.
The plan was to hike to Sierra City in 2 days, resupply while drinking milkshakes, and head back out for another stretch of 4 days to Belden, where a resupply box and a room were awaiting us.
This in the picture was definitely a high moment on the trail. EVERYTHING was perfect, as I walked behind Chef and Pacman while listening to Lord Huron. I was HAPPY.
Mile 1196.5 | day 73 | Sierra City
Town food in Sierra City. I unfortunately did not resist and drank 2 chocolate milkshakes before hitting the trail again in the afternoon… it was not a good idea.
Mile 1203.5 | day 73 | On trail
Trail magic at the top of the long afternoon climb to Sierra Buttes Road… only two peanut butter cups were left, but it felt surreal!
Mile 1203.5 | day 73 | On trail
Sunset from our campsite at Sierra Buttes Road.
Mile 1209 | day 74 | On trail
Views over Sierra Buttes.
Mile 1210 | day 74 | On trail
Deer Lake from above. It looked like a perfect hole into the ground, leading to an “upside-down” world.
Mile 1244 | day 75 | On trail
Walking through the burnt trees in Plumas National Forest felt strange… we could admire both the destructive and the regenerative power of nature at the same time.
Mile 1246 | day 75 | On trail
Plumas National Forest, after the 2021 disastrous Dixie Fire.
Mile 1274 | day 77 | On trail
Chef and Pacman crossing an idyllic meadow in the morning.
Mile 1287.9 | day 77 | Belden
TOWN DAAAAAAAAY!
“Halfway There”
Belden to Burney Mountain Guest Ranch (BMGR)
Distance: 123 miles
Time: 5 days
Our Resupplies: Belden
Mile 1309 | day 78 | On trail
We said goodbye to the strange town of Belden and to its crazy ravers, and started climbing. Focused on reaching our next goal, the PCT midpoint, we kept placing one step in front of the other.
Our plan was to quickly stop in Old Station for lunch and milkshakes on the 4th day. We then wanted to keep hiking and arrive on the 5th day at Burney Mountain Guest Ranch, where we could have a family dinner, top up our resupply and rest in a shared cabin.
These were the smoky views over the Dixie Fire burnt zone. We hiked across these landscapes for a few long days, and were shocked by the vastity of this past wildfire.
Meanwhile, the smoke in the distance constantly reminded us of our next threat: the Shelly Fire, burning close to the town of Etna.
Mile 1313 | day 78 | On trail
Views of Mount Lassen at sunrise.
This volcano kept getting closer and closer, as we approached Lassen Volcanic National Park.
Mile 1317 | day 78 | On trail
I was having a bad morning… I felt energyless and didn’t manage to wake up fully. But seven miles later, my mood suddenly changed, as I took a turn and found myself in front of Mama Deer and her two Baby Deers. It was the most magical encounter.
Mile 1325 | day 78 | Midpoint
Chef signing the trail register at the PCT midpoint, after carefully reading the last few pages, looking for familiar trail names ahead of us.
Mile 1325 | day 78 | Midpoint
“Oooooh we’re halfway there! Oooohh! Living on the trail!”
Mile 1340 | day 79 | On trail
First views after entering Lassen Volcanic National Park… the moon that morning was so beautiful.
Mile 1342 | day 79 | On trail
Green forest, magical light, fresh breeze: the start of our first “30 miles day”.
Mile 1368 | day 79 | On trail
Burnt forest, destruction and insufferable heat: the end of our first “30 miles day”.
Mile 1404 | day 82 | On trail
The stretch from Old Station to Burney Mountain Guest Ranch was so exposed and dry. Walking through it felt like being back in the desert… heatwave, water caches and rattlesnakes included!
Mile 1406 | day 82 | On trail
It was so hot… I swear I could see the filthy layer of sweat, dirt and sunscreen melt on my skin.
Mile 1410.8 | day 82 | BMGR
Arriving at Burney Mountain Guest Ranch felt like walking straight into paradise, as Christine and Chiron warmly welcomed us with a fresh soda and so much kindness… best overnight stay on the PCT so far!
Mile 1410.8 | day 83 | BMGR
We woke up with the smell of smoke in the air. At breakfast, we quickly found out about a new wildfire, Park Fire, which just started South of us.
After praying the “wind gods” to blow the smoke away from us, we decided to keep going, planning to quickly visit Burney Falls and to arrive in the town of Mount Shasta on our 4th hiking day. I am glad to say it worked out!
“Smoky Shasta”
Burney Mountain Guest Ranch (BMGR) to Mount Shasta
Distance: 91 miles
Time: 4 days
Our Resupplies: BMGR
Mile 1419.5 | day 83 | On trail
Pacman hiking between big trees in the morning light, shortly before reaching Burney Falls.
Mile 1420 | day 83 | Burney Falls
Burney Falls.
We quickly stopped at the General Store for picking up a box, eat town food and drink milkshakes (my new goal is to drink a milkshake at every town stop).
Mile 1420 | day 83 | Burney Falls
Changed to the fourth pair of shoes! This time, the cushioning of my third pair was gone after almost 480 miles.
Mile 1439 | day 84 | On trail
Shades of green in the smoke.
Mile 1451 | day 84 | On trail
“It’s the circle of liiiiife!”
Mount Shasta… this majestic volcano captured our attention already two days ago, as it briefly appeared in the distance, partially hidden by clouds. As we finally found ourselves in front of it on the top of a climb, it simply stole our hearts.
Mile 1457 | day 84 | On trail
The trail crossed a stretch with lots of overgrown plants and blowdowns. It was definitely “type II fun”.
Mile 1461 | day 85 | On trail
Dramatic sky on the planet of Tatooine.
The smoke of the Park Fire was dense enough to block the sunlight. We were informed about the PCT closure just South of us and felt lucky to be already past it and at a safe distance.
Mile 1472 | day 85 | On trail
We spent the day hiking through a green tunnel. I had the impression that the huge trees were somehow trying to protect us from the smoke.
Here, I felt quite exposed on the bridge, but safe again on the other side.
Mile 1491 | day 86 | On trail
Mount Shasta appeared in front of us once again, this time surrounded by smoke. It looked like the mountain was floating in the sky.
Mile 1500 | day 86 | On trail
1500 miles in the books!
I am now writing from our motel room in Mount Shasta, showered and ready to head out and get wasted with town food.
The town of Mount Shasta is full of PCT hikers. Everyone who got stuck behind the Park Fire hitched here from different locations on the trail… it is a big reunion!
Mile 1502 | day 87 | Mount Shasta
We left the town of Mount Shasta and started hiking towards Etna, together with so many other hikers. Suddenly, we were not alone on trail anymore, and had to quickly face new challenges: struggling to find free tentsites in the evening, seeing many hikers throughout the day, finding a hidden place to poop. It was crowded, it wasn’t easy.
“NorCal Blues”
Mount Shasta to Etna
Distance: 99 miles
Time: 5 days
Our Resupplies: Mount Shasta
Mile 1515 | day 87 | On trail
Morning views over Castle Crags, the projecting rock formations that resisted against glacial erosion during the glaciation.
Mile 1532 | day 88 | On trail
An opening in the pine trees to quickly spot Porcupine Lake. This stretch from Mount Shasta to Etna was surprisingly very beautiful… it reminded us of the Desolation Wilderness back at the beginning of Northern California.
Mile 1537.8 | day 88 | On trail
Arrival at Deadfall Lakes.
Mile 1537.8 | day 88 | On trail
“Book” of the month. This is a magazine I couldn’t resist to buy at the grocery shop in Mount Shasta, did not have the balls to trash without reading, will probably carry until Canada.
Mile 1566 | day 89 | On trail
Views over the Trinity Alps at the end of our “28 miles day”. Today I felt like shit. My legs were like wooden sticks, my feet were hurting at every step, my face was hot, I was sweating, I was dirty, and I was not in a good mood. When we arrived at camp, we quickly pitched the tent and I passed out. I am so grateful to be here with Yannick… he woke me up with a warm and delicious mashed potatoes dinner, and a liter of ice tea.
Mile 1571 | day 90 | On trail
One bar Verizon service: Pacman looking for updates about wildfires on Watch Duty.
Mile 1577 | day 90 | On trail
The wind started blowing North, bringing with him some smoke from the Park Fire.
Mile 1577 | day 90 | On trail
Creepy and smoky views over burned trees.
Mile 1587.2 | day 90 | On trail
In focus vs out of focus. Chef and Pacman at the campsite, enjoying a trail apéro for the 1st of August, as the “evening mental insanity” kicked in.
Mile 1595 | day 91 | On trail
Mount Shasta… still there in the distance, making fun of us.
Mile 1600.8 | day 91 | Etna
Although beautiful, this stretch was definitely a big challenge for us. We indeed decided to hike as many miles on the PCT as possible, trying not to skip any section, and to walk on detours around wildfires if needed.
It was difficult to stay mentally strong, when knowing that many people skipped ahead to different towns because of the wildfires, and were suddenly a few days in front of us. We felt sad, demotivated, frustrated and tired… our knees felt stiff and our feet were hurting more than usual. And then we realized… we were challenged by the NorCal Blues.
“Road Magic”
Etna to the CA/OR Border
Distance: 93 miles
Time: 4 days
Our Resupplies: Etna, Seiad Valley
Day 92 | Off trail
On the road again!
We started hiking off-trail, on a road alternate around the Shelly Fire closure. The route we chose was going to lead us from Etna to Fort Jones, an uncommon town for PCT hikers, and was then joining the PCT again at Paradise Lake, after a long climb on the Kelsey Trail.
Walking on asphalt doesn’t sound fun, but we were headed towards the unknown, the unexpected, the adventure. And what an adventure it was!
We walked on asphalt for the whole day, managing 32 miles in total. It was interesting to see different landscapes, as the road was winding through the farmlands of Scott Valley. Miraculously, the sky was clouded and we didn’t have to suffer under the scoarching sun. This was the first sign of trail magic… the trail was definitely trying to help us!
Day 92 | Off trail
Happy Lilo, stuffing as many cheetos in her mouth as possible while walking on the road.
Day 92 | Off trail
After a lunch stop in Fort Jones (where I had the BEST chocolate&pb milkshake ever), we kept walking and were blessed with further trail magic: two strangers pulled over and offered us fresh sodas and juicy peaches!
Day 92 | Off trail
Evening light as we walked along the Scott River. What happened that evening was pure magic.
After having chosen our campsite, we headed down to the river for collecting water. We were surprised to see two cute cabins hidden in the trees, and many cars parked in front of then, and realized we were on private property. We therefore slowly and silently retreated, but a voice called us from one cabin: “HEY!”. And in that moment, we thought we were in trouble and froze as the guy approached.
The situation could have developed in thousand different ways… and we would have never imagined to get the MOST EPIC TRAIL MAGIC EVER!
The most amazing, generous, happy and kind people came out of the cabins, invited us to jump in the river with them, offered us plates full of delicious food, beer, ice creams, smores at the fireplace! The evening ended with a guitar session and inspiring talks about dreams, life, wildfires and more. We were speachless, it felt like a dream!
Mile 1630.1 | day 93 | On trail
This was the valley we had to climb for 10 miles to get back on the PCT the next morning.
Mile 1657 | day 94 | Seiad Valley
The one building in Seiad Valley that comprises everything a PCT hiker might need: a café, a general store, and a post office.
Mile 1666 | day 94 | On trail
Chef on top of the brutal 1500m climb out of Seiad Valley.
Mile 1666 | day 94 | On trail
Evening light on the ridge shortly after the climb.
Mile 1667.1 | day 95 | On trail
Mount Shasta. You! Again!
This sunrise stole my heart… it looked like a watercolor painting.
Mile 1694 | day 95 | On trail
After having hiked almost 1700 miles, we finally said goodbye to the state of California and took our first steps into Oregon!
